Questions and Answers

Find out essentials about the chile peppers, the spicy cuisines and the culture surrounding the chilli, as presented in my book Red Hot China

Chinese Cuisines

  • Q: What are the eight “great cuisines” of China?
    • A: The eight “great cuisines” of China are Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, Anhui, Cantonese, Hunan, and Sichuan cuisines. These culinary traditions are distinguished by their unique ingredients, flavors, and cooking techniques.  
  • Q: What is the “flavor principle” of a cuisine?
    • A: The “flavor principle” of a cuisine is a combination of flavoring agents that create the taste that ultimately defines the cuisine. For example, the flavor principle of Sichuan cuisine is often described as “ma la” (numbing-hot), which is created by combining Sichuan peppercorns and chili peppers.  
  • Q: What is the difference between “Western” and East Asian cuisines in terms of flavor combinations?
    • A: Research suggests that “Western” cuisines tend to combine ingredients that share similar flavor compounds, while East Asian cuisines often combine ingredients with contrasting flavor compounds.  

Guizhou

  • Q: What is the defining flavor of Guizhou cuisine?
    • A: The defining flavor of Guizhou cuisine is the combination of sour and spicy, often achieved through the use of fermented chili peppers.  
  • Q: What is “zao la jiao”?
    • A: “Zao la jiao” is a fermented chili sauce that’s unique to Guizhou cuisine. It’s made with a variety of local chili peppers, salt, and a dash of baijiu (a strong liquor), resulting in a sour-spicy flavor that’s essential to many Guizhou dishes.  
  • Q: What is “zhe er gen”?
    • A: “Zhe er gen” is the root of the plant Houttuynia cordata, a pungent and fishy-tasting root vegetable that’s popular in Guizhou cuisine. It’s often added to chili sauces or eaten as a vegetable on its own.
  • Q: What is “suanlatang”?
    • A: “Suanlatang” (酸辣汤) translates to “sour and spicy soup”. It is a popular dish in Guizhou cuisine, known for its unique combination of flavors.
  • Q: What are the key ingredients of suanlatang?
    • A: The key ingredients of suanlatang are typically a combination of sour and spicy elements. The sourness often comes from fermented ingredients like sour soup, while the spiciness is provided by chili peppers.
  • Q: What is the origin of suanlatang?
    • A: Suanlatang is believed to have originated in Guizhou, China. The dish has its roots in the traditional cooking of the Miao people, an ethnic minority group in Guizhou.
  • Q: How is suanlatang prepared?
    • A: Suanlatang is often prepared as a hotpot dish, where the sour and spicy soup base is cooked at the table. Various ingredients, such as meat, seafood, vegetables, and noodles, are then added to the simmering soup.
  • Q: What is the cultural significance of suanlatang?
    • A: Suanlatang is not just a dish but also a reflection of Guizhou’s culinary heritage and cultural diversity. The dish’s unique combination of sour and spicy flavors represents the region’s distinct culinary identity.

Guangxi

  • Q: What is “crossroads cooking”?
    • A: “Crossroads cooking” refers to cuisines that are influenced by a mix of different culinary traditions. Guangxi cuisine is a prime example, as it incorporates elements from neighboring provinces and countries, including Guangdong, Hunan, Yunnan, Vietnam, and Laos.  
  • Q: What is Guilin la jiao jiang?
    • A: Guilin la jiao jiang (Guilin chili sauce) is a popular condiment made with local chili peppers, garlic, and often fermented soybeans. It’s known for its complex flavor and versatility, and it’s often used as a dipping sauce or added to stir-fries and other dishes.  
  • Q: What is the significance of the Longji Rice Terraces?
    • A: The Longji Rice Terraces are not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also a center of chili pepper cultivation and use in Guangxi. The region’s unique “sour soup fish” hotpot (suanlatang, also see above), made with local cherry tomatoes and fermented chili peppers, is a testament to the culinary traditions of the Miao and Dong people who inhabit this area.  

Peppers, Places, People

  • Q: What is the difference between a landrace and a cultivar?
    • A: A landrace is a locally adapted variety of a plant that has evolved over time through natural selection and farmer selection. A cultivar, on the other hand, is a plant variety that has been deliberately bred for specific characteristics.  
  • Q: Why is it difficult to classify chili peppers in China?
    • A: Chili peppers in China often lack formal names and are instead classified based on their appearance (e.g., “facing-heaven chili”) or local uses. This can make it challenging to accurately identify and categorize different chili pepper varieties.  

Henan

  • Q: What is unique about Henan’s relationship with chili peppers?
    • A: Henan is a major chili pepper-producing region in China, but its cuisine is not traditionally known for being spicy. The chili peppers grown in Henan are primarily used for commercial purposes, such as making chili powder or exporting to other provinces.  
  • Q: What is the “San Ying Jiao” (three cherries pepper)?
    • A: The “San Ying Jiao” is a variety of facing-heaven chili that is unique to Zhecheng, Henan. It’s known for its bright red color, high yield, and relatively mild pungency.  
  • Q: How did chili pepper cultivation become established in Henan?
    • A: There are conflicting accounts, but one popular story suggests that a migrant worker from Hunan, missing the spicy flavors of his home province, introduced chili pepper cultivation to Henan.  

Learning to Eat Hot

  • Q: Why do people enjoy eating chili peppers, even though they cause a burning sensation?
    • A: One theory is that the pain of chili peppers triggers the release of endorphins, which have mood-boosting and pain-reducing effects. This can lead to a pleasurable “rush” after the initial pain subsides.  
  • Q: What is the “antimicrobial hypothesis”?
    • A: The “antimicrobial hypothesis” suggests that the use of spices, particularly in hot climates, may have evolved as a way to protect against foodborne pathogens.  
  • Q: What are some of the social and cultural factors that influence chili pepper consumption?
    • A: Chili pepper consumption is influenced by various social and cultural factors, including upbringing, regional cuisine, and social norms. For example, children often learn to eat chili peppers by observing and imitating adults in their community.  

Sichuan

  • Q: What is “ma la” (numbing-hot) flavor?
    • A: “Ma la” is a unique flavor combination that’s characteristic of Sichuan cuisine. It’s created by combining Sichuan peppercorns, which have a numbing-tingling effect, with chili peppers, which provide the heat.  
  • Q: What is the most important chili pepper in Sichuan cuisine?
    • A: The “er jing tiao” (two stripes) chili is the most widely used chili pepper in Sichuan cuisine. It’s known for its moderate heat, bright red color, and versatility, and it’s used in a variety of dishes, including mapo tofu, laziji (spicy chicken), and Pixian Douban (fermented broad bean paste).  
  • Q: What is Pixian Douban?
    • A: Pixian Douban is a fermented broad bean paste that’s considered the “soul of Sichuan cooking.” It’s made with er jing tiao chilies, broad beans, salt, and wheat, and it undergoes a lengthy fermentation process, developing a deep, savory flavor that’s essential to many Sichuan dishes.  

Chongqing

  • Q: What is the origin of Chongqing hotpot?
    • A: Chongqing hotpot is believed to have originated from the simple cooking pots of river workers who used chili peppers and other spices to flavor their cheap cuts of meat and offal.  
  • Q: What is “Li’s Spicy Degrees”?
    • A: “Li’s Spicy Degrees” is a standardized spicy scale developed by Dezhuang Industrial Group to measure the pungency of hotpot base ingredients. It ranges from 0° (no spiciness) to 75° (“highway to hell”), allowing diners to choose their preferred level of heat.  
  • Q: What is the significance of Shizhu in Chongqing’s chili pepper industry?
    • A: Shizhu is a major chili pepper-producing region in Chongqing, known for its “Shizhu Red” chili varieties. These varieties, developed by Chongqing’s “Chilli Mama” Lü Zhonghua, are prized for their flavor, color, and disease resistance.  

Hunan

  • Q: What are the two main flavor profiles of Hunan cuisine?
    • A: Hunan cuisine is characterized by two main flavor profiles: “xin la” (pure spicy) and “xiang la” (aromatic spicy). Xin la dishes rely primarily on the heat of chili peppers, while xiang la dishes combine chili peppers with other aromatics, such as garlic and ginger.  
  • Q: What is “duo la jiao”?
    • A: “Duo la jiao” (chopped chili) is a Hunan specialty made with fresh chili peppers that are chopped and salted, then fermented for a slightly sour flavor. It’s a versatile condiment that can be used as a dipping sauce, added to stir-fries, or used to flavor other dishes.  
  • Q: What is the cultural significance of chili peppers in Hunan?
    • A: Chili peppers are deeply ingrained in Hunan’s culture and are often associated with the province’s revolutionary spirit and its people’s “fiery” personality. The saying “no spice, no revolution” (attributed to Mao Zedong) highlights the chili pepper’s symbolic importance in Hunan.  

The Spread of Chilli

  • Q: When were chili peppers first introduced to China?
    • A: Chili peppers were first introduced to China in the 16th century, likely through trade routes with India and Southeast Asia.  
  • Q: What were some of the early names for chili peppers in China?
    • A: Early names for chili peppers in China included “fan jiao” (barbarian pepper), “la qie” (spicy eggplant), and “hai jiao” (sea pepper). These names reflect the chili pepper’s foreign origins and its initial unfamiliarity to Chinese people.  
  • Q: How did chili peppers spread throughout China?
    • A: Chili peppers spread throughout China through a combination of trade routes, migration patterns, and cultural exchange. For example, the migration of people from Hunan to Sichuan is believed to have played a significant role in the adoption of chili peppers in Sichuan cuisine.  

Yunnan

  • Q: What is unique about Yunnan’s chili pepper landscape?
    • A: Yunnan’s diverse geography, ranging from tropical rainforests to the Himalayan highlands, supports a wide variety of chili pepper species, including the extremely pungent ghost pepper and the “Nixi golden tree chili”, a rare yellow-ripening chili that’s grown as a perennial.  
  • Q: What is the Tea Horse Road?
    • A: The Tea Horse Road was an ancient trade route that connected Yunnan with Tibet and other Himalayan regions. It may have played a crucial role in the spread of chili peppers and other spices throughout southwestern China.  
  • Q: What is the significance of the “Nixi golden tree chili”?
    • A: The “Nixi golden tree chili” is a unique yellow-ripening chili that’s grown as a perennial in the Himalayan foothills of Yunnan. It’s prized for its high pungency and slightly citrusy flavor and is a testament to the adaptability of chili peppers to diverse environments.

The fascinating world of the chilli in China